Viognier
Viognier is an extraordinary grape variety. It almost became extinct and shrunk to a measly 32ha, mainly in the Northern Rhone. Located on the right bank of this area, the Condrieu appellation is the most prized and famous location to grow Viognier and drove the recovery of this great variety.
Grape Characteristics
Viognier produces smooth and generous wines. They are highly aromatic, with a floral perfume of mango, violet, apricot, peach and orange aromas. Top wines can have layers of flavour which commonly include ginger, honey and stone-like notes. Structurally, the wines often have high alcohol, over 13% abv. Commonly, the wines have low acidity, a full body and a dry finish, however, this was not always the case. In the early 20th century, many wines were vinified sweet. Top examples have a very long developing finish but as Viognier is prone to oxidation even top wines should be drunk not later than 3-5 years.
Regions
France
Northern Rhone
Condrieu
The spiritual homeland of Viognier. This small, distinctive white wine appellation produces high-quality wines exclusively from Viognier. Within this appellation there are seven communes: St Michel sur Rhône, Vérin, Chavanay, Saint Pierre de Boeuf, Malleval, Limony, and Condrieu itself. Vines have been grown here since the ancient Greeks, Emperor Domitian is said to have planted vines here in 92AD. Condrieu became an important trading route, again increasing the popularity of the wines. However, the devastation of the World Wars and phylloxera, combined with the treacherously steep slopes lead to the decline of Viognier. A revival occurred in the 1980s. The new classified appellation only included the best slopes and exposure, equating to around 200ha of vineyards.
Château- Grillet.
This is the only other 100% Viognier appellation. It is also a monopole (one of two in France), meaning it is owned solely by one producer. The tiny 3ha site has ancient granite, quartz and sandy soils that lack nutrition and are free draining creating an excellent growing environment for Viognier. The vines are planted in a natural amphitheatre and are south facing.
Southern France
Viognier, due to its high-quality reputation and popularity in the USA is now being increasingly grown in southern France and often blended with other Rhône varieties including Marsanne, Roussanne and Grenache Blanc.
Australia
Outside of France, Australia arguably produces some of the worlds most outstanding Viognier. It is a trendsetting country, with Yalumba pioneering plantings in Eden Valley in 1980. A range of styles is produced here but generally, they are focused on the purity of fruit often with some wonderful lees ageing giving a wonderful texture component.
South Africa
The first country outside of France to pass Viognier through the strict quarantine process of growing vines abroad. It grows well here creating wines with very high alcohol contents.
Chile
Well priced examples are grown in certain locations where the grape can reach the aromatic potential that Viognier needs to shine.
USA
California.
It is grown in quality and quantity since the 1980s in California. Often very high in alcohol, it can be difficult to balance these wines, with some flabby examples around. However, when controlled well they can be exciting wines to try. The California Rhone Rangers have certainly lead to the advancement of this grape in the USA.